my guide to walking the camino frances as a first-time pilgrim
my second day on the Camino Frances. waking up in the Pyrenees with a fog looming on the trail was one of the most surreal experiences of my life.
I woke up one morning with a voice in my head that just wouldn’t go away…
“You’re going to walk the Camino.”
I had only heard of the Camino de Santiago previously, about 5 or so years earlier, when I randomly stumbled upon the movie The Way. Like many who have walked before me, this movie was my first introduction to the Camino de Santiago. Only, at the time of watching, I hadn’t felt compelled or even remotely interested in this pilgrimage.
As I finished the film I thought “thats cool…” and then moved on with my life as though nothing had happened. Until this voice creeped into my head years later and spoke the words to me “You’re going to walk the Camino.”
At first it was subtle. I thought “I must have seen something that triggered this… some sign somewhere and my subconscious brain is just telling me about it…” and then tried to ignore and lock the voice away into some area of my mind where it would eventually just disappear.
But disappear it did not. It only grew louder like a flashing STOP sign at an intersection.
Soon realizing that this was not some regularly scheduled programming by my subconscious and was actually something much more, I decided to listen. Without much planning beyond picking which route I would follow, I booked my plane ticket and off I went to France.
I'm guessing something like this may have happened to you. You watched The Way, maybe watched one of my vlogs, or heard about this walk from a friend, and had voice in your head saying “You should do this… You should walk the Camino de Santiago”. In celebration of whatever may have brought you here today, and in honoring of the spirit of the Camino, I’ve compiled some of the most helpful information for walking the Camino Frances.
While I’m not an expert on the Camino Frances, these are things that I found the most helpful on my pilgrimage and things I wish someone would have shared with me before I landed in Saint Jean Pied de Port, France.
what we’ll cover in this blog:
what to expect
how long it will take (and routing advice)
my full accommodation list
common mistakes for first-time pilgrims
what to pack
cost
safety on the Camino Frances
what I would do differently
helpful resources
what to expect
The only thing I can say for sure about this journey is that it will change you in some way. If you talk to any pilgrim who has walked the Camino de Santiago, whether it be The French Way or another route, they will say “It changed my life.” It’s only the HOW that looks different for everyone.
While the landscape can be absolutely stunning, so much of the adventure is internal and lies within, so it’s a bit difficult to put into words what your expectations of the walk could be. Your may show up hoping to heal from a relationship or to find answers to life’s most burning questions: “What is my purpose? What should I do next with my life?” and, while you may receive those answers, you also may not.
I showed up with a few questions of my own and while I may not have received the answers, I found something much more significant. Your journey will be different and no doubt in my mind, just as incredible.
Instead of listing what you can expect on the way, I would invite you to just show up and take in everything this experience has to offer.
Be open to living completely different than you do at home.
Stay curious.
Don’t rush the walk or try to hurry to your hostel each day.
Take breaks frequently and enjoy the view.
This is no one right way to walk The Way.
Show up. Walk. Let everything take care of itself.
Only one thing is truly certain: if you are walking during the Summer, you can definitely expect HEAT.
one of the most famous areas in Saint Jean Pied de Port France. You begin your journey by walking over the bridge and out of St. Jean into the Pyrenees!
how long will it take?
The Camino Frances, also known as The French Route, is the most popular of the Camino de Santiago routes. If you are choosing to walk the entire route from St. Jean Pied Pied de Port, France to Santiago de Compostela, Spain the distance will be around 500 miles or 790 km. For the purposes of this blog I will be focusing on the full route rather than the last 100km from Sarria to Santiago.
Most pilgrims complete the Camino Frances within 30-35 days.
I personally created my itinerary to have several days off and much shorter days in various sections so my itinerary ended up being 60 days which is almost twice as long as most people and to be honest, not really necessary.
I tacked on 2-3 extra hours per day for filming and used my days off to organize files for the vlog, which most people will not be doing.
I would suggest taking a few days off in larger cities for sight-seeing though, or if you feel you may not be in the best physical shape currently, adjusting the route with shorter days so there is less stress on your body.
The time it will take to finish the Camino Frances will depend on your fitness levels and the time you have to walk. I would say 40-45 days would be the sweet spot for someone who wanted to take their time. This would keep your average walking per day at around 12-13 miles or 20km.
The Camino Guidebook has an example of this kind of itinerary on their website here.
Everyone will have different itineraries on this walk and there is A LOT of infrastructure on the Camino Frances. There are many small towns and villages in between the larger stops where you can find lodging. Be sure to watch my accommodation video for more tips on routing your perfect Camino Pilgrimmage!
tip: When looking at itineraries with average times on any website or guidebook, I noticed that the average walk time was totally off UNLESS you are a speed walker or don’t stop for breaks. If you plan to take your time and enjoy the scenery I would add on an extra 1-2 hours to the day whenever you see “average walk time for the day.”
With all that said, let’s dive right into my accommodation list and route below!
relaxing for a moment at Casa Magica.
accommodation list
Like I mentioned above, my route included many days off and some shorter days. If I were to do it again I would have less days off, except in large cities where I wanted to visit cathedrals, museums, go grocery shopping, and do my laundry. Instead I would focus on shorter days, especially in the beginning stages of the Camino when my body was just getting used to the daily schedule. Being an avid hiker, I thought it wouldn’t be that big of a deal. Daily walking, however, versus hiking a few days in a row, turned out to be much more difficult than I had anticipated.
While most pilgrims stay in dorm rooms, I opted for all but two (Gite Makila & Refuge Orrison) private rooms. I admit, at first I booked several dorm rooms but soon realized there really was no need to do so as the experience was the same except I got better sleep and had more spaciousness to reflect, journal, and have time to myself.
I personally can say I am very happy with this decision and it was only further confirmed as time went on and I heard everyone’s gripes about people snoring, seeing men’s private bits, and not having enough hot water for a shower.
If you also are an introvert like I am or just want quiet time after a day of walking and possibly chatting with a lot of other people on the trail, then having private rooms may help you deepen into the experience. I know it did for me.
And do not fret about missing out on any community experiences! Almost every place I stayed had communal living spaces to hang out and plenty of group dinners as well. As long as you are willing to just say “Hello” to a fellow pilgrim you will make friends and have a wonderful time!
Be sure to watch the FULL VIDEO of my accommodation stays and other tips below!
Here is a lis of almost every place I stayed along the Camino Frances. If a city/town is missing, it’s because the place I stayed is now closed permanently or I would not suggest the stay for various reasons.
Saint Jean Pied de Port, Gite Makila & Gite Compostella
$29/$62 p/night
I stayed in two places while in SJPDP. There are a TON of places to stay so you won’t have an issue finding something that works well for you. I would highly suggest picking a place that has a group dinner on your first night so you can meet fellow pilgrims. I stayed in a private room in Gite Compostella for a few days before transferring over to Gite Makila on the night before I headed out. Both were great though Gite Compostella didn’t feel very communal. The space was lovely though. Gite Makila had a beautiful outdoor area and a group breakfast before we all headed out for the day. I liked this place quite a bit and it is right near the Camino Store and restaurants.
Pyrenees Mountains, Refuge Orisson
$45 p/night
I highly suggest saying here instead of making the trek to Roncesvalles. You don’t want to overdo it on the first day! The view is incredible and this is a great spot to make friends. I met almost everyone I walked with during the Camino at this stop and am so happy with my experience here! You MUST book in advance. Please note they are VERY difficult to get ahold of sometimes so be patient with a response.
tip: book all your arrangements via Booking.com or email the albergue/pension directly.
the view from the deck at Refuge Orisson. looking out at this after a long day feels well worth all the sweat!
Roncesvalles, Posada de Roncevalles
$95 p/night
A lot of people stay at the monastery in town but I booked here instead so I could get a private room. From what I heard, that was a good decision as people said it was crowded and wasn’t exactly what they expected.
tip: Don’t miss the mass at The Royal Collegiate Church of Roncesvalles which is right down the street! It was such a sweet experience, even if you are not a Christian or Catholic.
Zubiri, Txantxorena
$90 p/night
While I have no idea how to pronounce the name, this was one of my more luxurious stays on the Camino and one I would 100% book again! Breakfast was wonderful and she even picked up gluten-free and vegan options for me. There is no dinner service and less communal experience here, but after a few difficult days I was happy to have a really nice bed and great facilities.
Pamplona (no suggested stay)
As Pamplona is a LARGE city, you will find plenty of options, I highly recommend booking in near Plaza del Castillo so you can be within a 5 minute walk of the Camino store (in case you need to get different shoes or other items), popular restaurants, and the cathedral.
Puente la Reina, Alburgue Jakue
$48 p/night
This place was awesome! I would 100% recommend! When you first arrive, there is an outdoor bar with tables and a really nice vibe to just hang out and chat with fellow pilgrims. Dinner is served downstairs and there will be different allocated times at which you can eat. While I can’t say I was blown away by the food, I found this place to just be really cool. I believe there is one room with a private bathroom but the other private rooms shared a bathroom with those in the dorms.
Villatuerte, Casa Magica
$72 p/night
The name says it all! There is only ONE private room and is BIG! Enough for a couple plus one other person or just enjoy having the room to yourself. I will say, if you plan on sharing with a friend, the shower is in the bedroom itself, as is the toilet, and you will not have any privacy when bathing or using the restroom so keep this in mind. The dinner is fabulous and fully vegetarian. There are hammocks outside, a washing machine, and overall the couple is just very sweet!
Estella, Alda Estella Hostal
$82 p/night
I don’t have anything particularly special to say about this place. It was located near the town square so a great location if you do not want to walk too far when grabbing dinner. I booked a private room and ended up having four beds all to myself!
Logrono (no suggested stay)
As this is a larger city on the Camino, there will be plenty of options for you. I would suggest taking a look at where you are booking to ensure you are not right above a bar if you care to sleep at all. I am a heavy sleeper and I booked a place on the Camino route itself in the middle of the city and didn’t get much sleep at all.
Navarrete, Hostal Villa de Navarrette
$39 p/night
A family runs this Hostal (like most on the Camino Frances) and they all were very accommodating and kind. I loved the location which was only about a 1-2 minute walk from the cathedral and right next to all the restaurant in town. I had a balcony to myself so I could dry my clothes outside, and the son even carried my bag up to my room. Overall I would stay here again just because of the hospitality and location!
the only private room at Casa Magica.
Najera, Hostal Hispano
$45 p/night
There was nothing too special about this place though the receptionist was very kind (and funny!) and it was very clean. It was also in a very quiet area of town, meaning I did have to walk about 5 minutes to get food. That seems rather trivial as I write this, but as this was the beginning of the Camino my feet were quite sore as my body got used to walking. With that said, I would still stay here again.
Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Parador de Sto. Domingo Bernardo de Fresneda
$49 p/night
Camino Frances luxury at its finest! This historic hotel is housed in the former San Francisco Convent and if you are a sucker for decor and comfort, then you will love this place! I had an injury on the day I arrived and was happy to have such a comfortable place to relax. It’s within walking distance of all the restaurants and right on the Camino too. Compared to USA prices, I felt that they could charge far more for what you get!
Belorado, Hostel B.
$45 p/night
Upon entering, I was greeted with fresh sparking lemonade. They also had a small store downstairs where you could pick up a few provisional goods. They also offered breakfast (and possibly dinner though I am unsure) though Belorado had great food in general. The private room I booked had 4 beds. Basically some places will offer a private room but really it will be a small dorm room you get all to yourself. If you are traveling with a partner, you would need to sleep in separate beds. You will have your own bathroom though. I would 100% stay here again.
Villafranca-Montes de Oca, La Alpargateria
$26 p/night
The woman who owns and operates this place is a gem! She was a firecracker and also a gifted healer. The room itself was OK but you don’t need much on the Camino anyway. I had a queen bed and had to share a bathroom with several others. If you book ahead, see if she can book you in for a massage too! She is wonderfully talented and I felt so relaxed after my mini-session with her.
Burgos, Hotel Lar
$100 p/night
Burgos was my favorite big city on the Camino de Santiago and I really liked the location of this hotel. One of the few hotels I stayed at on The Way, it didn’t have a “Camino Vibe” to it though I liked taking a few days break to sight-see and explore the city. There are several podiatrists within walking distance, it’s surrounded by many cafes, and only about a 5-10 minute walk to the cathedral. I had a HUGE room with 2 beds and even had a bath too! I also had several windows where I could look out on the street and people watch or just take in the city.
hanging out in one of my favorite cities along the Camino Frances, Burgos.
Rabe de las Calzades, Hostal-Bar Restaurante "La Fuente"
$55 p/night
I could not rave more about this place! This town was not a main stage/stop on the Camino yet I am so happy I stayed here. The owners were very kind and made sure I had vegan and gluten-free food. There is a bar/restaurant downstairs and there is a separate menu for vegetarians. The room was small yet comfortable and the whole energy of the place felt very loving and cared for. I wish I could remember the name of it, but there is a small convent one street over where you can go watch the nuns sing. They didn’t speak any English yet their love was communicated so clearly. They gave me a necklace before I headed back to my hostal that evening. Overall, a great stay and a quieter stop on the Camino.
Hornillos del Camino, De Sol A Sol
While going from Rabe de las Calzades seemed like far too short of a day (I believe it was only about 7km), I still really enjoyed this stay and would book again if my itinerary and walking distances each day matched up. The owner’s sister married Emilio Estevez’s son so there is a direct connection to the movie The Way - keep this in mind if you are a fan! Besides that cool info, the owner was very sweet, the place was clean, and he made sure there were gluten-free options in the morning for me. You can watch the vlog with him in it here!
Castrojeriz, aCienLeguas
$42 p/night
Giant room and great shower! If you want a space where you can stretch and just relax, you will enjoy this place. There is a bar and restaurant on site, two outdoor areas, and laundry facilities as well. This was one of the nicer places I stayed in and would book again in a heartbeat.
the room at aCienLeguas in Castrojeriz. loved this stay!
Fromista, HotelSanMartin
$48 p/night
I liked the location of this place and was happy with the stay. There is a restaurant and bar downstairs and an area outside to have food and drinks as well. You are right off of the Camino like most places on this list. There was nothing particularly special about this place though I would book again.
Carrión de los Condes, Hotel Real Monasterio de San Zoilo
$94 p/night
This was another fabulous stay! Located in an old monastery, you hear chants being played over the speakers as you walk into the reception area. While not near any other facilities or restaurants, it has a restaurant on site and I would absolutely book this place again! The dinner was incredible and the breakfast buffet was too. I even had air conditioning here. Pure Heaven!
Ledigos, Alburgue LaMorena
$48 p/night
This place had a great vibe and facilities. There was a bar and food on site and they offered a variety of choices. They had an outdoor seating area to enjoy drinks and snacks with others as well as a backyard. I believe they also offered a group dinner at a set time but I was so tired when I was there I didn’t attend. I imagine it was good based on everything else they had there.
Leon, Hotel La Posada Regia
$72 p/night
Leon has a lot of places to choose from though this location was perfect! I was a few minutes walk from the cathedral, right off the Camino itself, and nearby great restaurants. The room was spacious and the front desk staff were friendly. I would stay here again.
Villadangos del Páramo, Hostal Alto Paramo
$64 p/night
While the owners were very sweet, I would not necessarily book here again just due to the location. It felt like staying at a truck stop - you are right off the freeway and there is nothing else around except the bar downstairs. BUT, from what I remember, I wanted to break up a couple longer days and this was one of the only options. It was clean and worked for my needs.
Hospital de Órbigo, Albergue de Peregrinos-San Miguel
$37 p/night
This was such a cool albergue! As you walk into this place, you can feel the love. There are paintings that line every single wall from pilgrims who have passed through. Pick up a paint brush anytime while there and leave your own masterpiece to be hung as well! The private room here was actually one of the dorm-rooms-turned-private accommodation. I had 4 beds to myself and a shared bathroom. There is a communal kitchen and outdoor space for everyone to use. The owners are sweet and have a great story about how they came to have this place so be sure to ask when there!
the living area at Albergue de Peregrinos-San Miguel in Hospital de Órbigo.
Astorga, Albergue Só Por Hoje , Albergue de Peregrinos no Camino de Santiago
$69 p/night
Astorga was a very cool city and while none of the sights made it into the vlog, I really enjoyed it here. You can check out this place in this video here. I would 100% book again!
Santa Catalina de Somoza, Via Avis
$74 p/night
My favorite place on the Camino! I had a complete break-down ( it was more like a break-open) while here and I think this place helped initiate the process. It was absolutely STUNNING and felt incredibly private and secure. When you open the gate, there is a private courtyard and each area has been thoughtfully decorated and maintained. It didn’t necessarily feel like a pilgrim place even though there were several other pilgrims here. I would go here on vacation if I was in the area. Great luxury at an affordable price! This place is also featured in one of the emotional vlogs I put out about the Camino here.
Foncebadon, El Trasgu de Foncebadón
$95 p/night
The owners of this place are hilarious and sweet. I loved chatting with them and the ease of which it was to just go downstairs and eat or pick up items in their in-house store. Everything was great and I would book this room again in a heartbeat. The private room I had was very tiny but worked well enough for me. They do laundry for $10 a basket which is a bit pricey, but worth it if you want to take some time to just chill before heading out to Cruz de Farro. Even though the room was small, I would stay here again because I really loved the owners.
tip: I stayed here for 2 nights. While I don’t think that was necessary I would suggest going up the cross in the afternoon rather than in the morning. This was suggested to me by the owner and I’m happy I did this as no one was there and I had time to reflect. You can watch the video about Cruz de Farro here.
debating on placing my Stone of Sorrow at Cruz de Farro.
Molinaseca, Hostal Casa San Nicolas
$51 p/night
This was a charming place only a block away from the river which runs through Molinaseca. The couple that owns this place has a wonderful story about their journey to the Camino, so be sure to strike up a conversation and ask! There is a communal kitchen, living room, and small courtyard. My bedroom was adorable and I would stay again and possibly add on an extra night here just so I could go swimming in the river the next day.
Villafranca del Bierzo, Micro-Hostal La Puerta del Perdón
$48 p/night
I am unsure why this is called a micro-hostel but I loved this place! I believe there are only a few rooms here and I had a private room with a twin bed and shower en suite. It was small but cute. The owner had a lovely downstairs area where he served food and he made a fresh breakfast. The White Chocolate Orange Cake he made from scratch and fresh avocado toast was enough for me to book again!
Vega de Valcarce, Las Rocas
$37 p/night
I wish I had filmed this stay because I loved it! Situated right on the river that runs through town, this place was centrally located with a great restaurant across the street which, if I remember correctly, was actually where I checked in. Right outside the door of my room, I could walk down a few steps and put my feet in the river. I actually ended up laying down in the river as it was so hot and what a joy that was! I had a private bathroom and would 100% stay here again as I loved listening to the river outside the window at night.
the lovely owners of Hostal Casa San Nicolas in Molinaseca.
O Cebreiro, Albergueria Frade
$53 p/night
There are not a lot of options in O Cebreiro so book ahead for this area! There was not much to this place in terms of facilities but I had a nice large bed and great bathroom. Definitely a nicer stay though do no expect much interaction with fellow pilgrims. O Cebreiro is a cool town right on top of a mountain and one place I would recommend staying (and booking ahead!) instead of heading to the next as the climb up the hill to O Cebreiro is a bit of a workout.
Treacastela, Albergue Atrio
$38 p/night
I really liked this room! It was one of the more unique stays I booked. You’ll be within walking distance of everything you need and it’s right on the Camino.
Samos, Pensión Santa Rosa
$26 p/night
This location was right on the river, just a block from the old monastery and near all the restaurants (there are not many in town). I would not book my particular room again though the place in general was nice. I had a room upstairs which had a “window” (the only window in the room) that looked out onto the hallway next to the bathroom so I had no privacy and could hear people in the restroom. The other rooms downstairs looked much more suitable. There was a small communal kitchen but I would not say it was set up for cooking full meals. There was, however, a nice area outside to sit in the hammocks and listen to the river.
this was my room at Albergue Atrio in Treacastela. I loved the stone walls and felt like I was in a little ‘nook’ when sleeping.
Sarria, Pensión-Albergue Puente Ribeira
$32 p/night
Sarria will have a lot of accommodation, however I stayed here. Nothing too special but the people at reception were friendly and my room was very clean. If you are starting from Sarria, I would say stay somewhere more community-oriented as this didn’t have a restaurant or community dinner.
Portomarin, Pension Perez
$37 p/night
Nothing to write home about, but it did have a balcony to dry clothes. I wouldn’t necessarily book here again though nothing was wrong with the stay either.
Palas de Rei, Pension Pardellas
$52 p/night
I really liked this place! There was a bar/restaurant downstairs which had amazing fried peppers. The only downside was that the only window in the room looked out towards another window across the hall.
one of the newer places on the Camino, Casa do cabo in Arzúa was quite nice and the AC was heaven sent!
Melide, A Lúa do Camiño
$58 p/night
If you are looking for a place with a pool, this is it! I loved that this place was quiet and had a great outdoor area. However there are no kitchen facilities or restaurant on-site so you will need to go out to eat. You’ll find those within a 5 minute walk.
Arzúa, Casa do cabo
$58 p/night
There is air conditioning here! I loved this place and would highly suggest booking it. Great location, only 1-2 blocks from the lavanderia, the facilities were beautiful, and I received a packed lunch. This place is fairly new and it will be one of the nicer stays—much less rustic than others on the Camino Frances.
Santiago
YOU MADE IT! With a wide selection to choose from, you will have no trouble finding something though I would book ahead if you want something budget friendly. When I was booking Santiago prices were very high and a few people I met had trouble finding budget accommodation. This might be a good time to splurge before leaving.
tip: You can not take your backpack in the cathedral (for pilgrim’s mass or any other service) so check in to your hotel first and see if they can hold your bag or check-in early. Pilgrim’s mass is VERY Crowded in the afternoon and they often turn people away. I would suggest waiting until the next morning as the morning mass is quiet and far less crowded. I loved being in the cathedral with only a handful of people and having that time to reflect and soak up the completion of the journey though if you want to experience with many other pilgrims start your day early!
ending my 2 month journey on the Camino!
common mistakes for first-time pilgrims
Most of these apply to staying in dorm rooms so they may not apply to you, but do take a look so you can offer advice to fellow pilgrims along the way.
Common Mistakes:
Using plastic bags in dorms. Do not keep all your personal items in plastic bags and rustle around in the morning if you are in a dorm. People will NOT be happy with you. Use compression bags and label them for ease in the morning or have everything laid out the night before or just leave the room and take out everything to a common area.
Playing music on the trail. This is more of a thing I found young people doing once you reach Sarria though I mention it in case you think it’s a worthy endeavor. This is a quick way to piss people off.
Using a headlamp in the dorms. This won’t matter if you have private rooms but if you are in dorms. If you must use a headlamp, use the red light as it’s less intrusive.
Not bringing ear plugs. If you are staying in a dorm, bring ear plugs. People snore loudly and I could even hear them from my private room sometimes!
Not wearing your shoes long enough before setting out on the trail. Be sure to break them in and try them on multiple surfaces for LONG periods of time, multiple days in a row.
Not drinking enough water. Make sure you pack more than you need each day as not all water spigots work. I found a 3L water bladder worked great for me.
Knowing the signs of heat stroke. Several people died on the Camino Frances from heat stroke while I was there. If you feel lightheaded at all, STOP and find shade or drench yourself in water. If you are not used to walking in 80-90 Fahrenheit weather then your body will take a few weeks to adjust. Start early in the morning during the summer and do not underestimate how hot the sun is especially if you are from a northern country such as Norway, Sweden, Denmark, etc.
Not training. Some people will say “the camino will train you.” Maybe, yes. But this is not true or helpful for a lot of people who are in their more ‘mature years’. If you are not able to walk the mileage you plan on walking per day by the time you get to the Camino, multiple days in a row, this pilgrimage may be more than just difficult. I want to be honest about this as many people I met ended up not completing the journey because of lack of training prior to arriving or because of the next mistake on my list…
If you feel a blister or pain starting, check it immediately! I ended up shortening a few of my days so I could go to the pharmacy or podiatrist and rest. I don't regret this as I ended up finishing and those who tried ‘toughing it out’ didn’t make it to Santiago. Little things turn into BIG thing on the Camino so be smart and tend to any little feet issues ASAP.
what to pack
Here is what I wish I had brought but didn’t:
Headlamp: On some mornings I started quite early and walked in total darkness. While it was fun to walk by moonlight when it was closer to the full moon, it was a real game of trust when it was near new moon and I couldn’t see a thing.
Dress: I would have loved to just slip on a comfy dress and my hiking sandals when going out for a beverage instead of just another hiking outfit. Think about what you will wear daily and what you wear post-shower or out to dinner. No one really dresses up, we all look like pilgrims all the time. I personally wish I had brought a casual dress just because it sounded like a nice change mentally from wearing hiking clothes all day, every day for 2 months, but it was definitely not a necessity.
Electrolytes: This is harder to find than one might think. My body is highly sensitive to dyes, coloring, and other artificial ingredients so the one option they had on the Camino de Santiago was NOT going to cut it. I would bring electrolytes next time.
To get an overview of what exactly to pack, watch my Packing Vlog Below!
cost
Everyone’s price point on the Camino is different. I spent 2 months on the Camino so my expenses were quite high compared to pretty much everyone. That said, compared to anything in the USA and being able to spend 2 months traveling through Europe on the most remarkable journey of my life - it was WELL WORTH IT!
I would say having a $100 a day budget is good if you plan to eat out, have all private rooms, and have a little extra spending money for drinks, museums, donating to churches, etc. Honestly I think you could get by with $75 if you needed to and still stay in private rooms. When staying in dorms, a good average would be around $50 per day or so. Dorm rooms are usually around free to $15 p/night and a 3-course pilgrim meal is usually $12 - $15.
Some things to think about when budgeting your pilgrimage:
Will you want to cook at night or go out to eat? Average pilgrim meal is $12 - $15 though I usually spent this on non-pilgrim meals and just ordered whatever I wanted.
Do you want private rooms?
Do you have an emergency fund just in case something happens?
I cover my full costs on the vlog which you can watch below. This goes over everything in detail!
tip: Remember to purchase travel insurance and put this in your budget as well! Things do happen on the Camino and you want to ensure you don’t come home with a BIG bill.
safety
The Camino de Santiago, in general, I would personally say is VERY safe. I felt more safe walking alone on the Camino Frances than anywhere I have hiked before in the USA. I would rather walk in Spain alone on the camino than in New York City or Los Angeles or even on the PCT. The scariest things to me were the animals not fenced in!
As a woman, I understand this question and even a hesitation to walking, though I think when you show up those fears will soon dissipate.
The only issue(s) you might encounter could be your transport/journey to the start of the Camino Frances. Paris is notorious for people stealing items so be on alert if transferring there and never let your luggage out of your sight. I met a woman who had all her belonging stolen on the train from Paris and had to walk barefoot on the trail.
Be alert when traveling and keep the following suggestions in mind:
Make copies of your travel insurance, passport, and any relevant personal information (health documents, etc). Keep this in a different place than your real documents.
Don’t keep all your cash in one place and make sure to stash some in different areas. You can get cash out along the way so you only need a few days worth at a time or enough to get you to the next big city. Most places also take cards (but not all!).
Some people had their walking poles or shoes stolen on the trail but I believe these incidents were truly by accident. Label your poles and your shoes by tying a ribbon around them at night before going to bed. It is dark in the morning and sometimes people grab things that look like theirs (if you are in a private room this will not be a concern unless they ask you to leave these items by the door).
You can always keep a GPS tracker on you like a Garmin InReach or even have your phone tracking on if it makes you feel more comfortable. Just make sure you have a SIM card or know how much your cell phone provider is charging you in a different country for using data all day long.
The Camino is filled with other pilgrims, many on a spiritual journey, and I think there is a certain energy about it that lends itself to safety. I have heard horror stories of those on the Pacific Crest Trail or Appalachian Trail here in the USA but never a bad tale from the Camino (except the pole or shoe incidents).
tired feet after a long couple of months on the Camino Frances.
what I would have done differently
I am not one to have regrets, but I do like to reflect on how I could improve after each journey or experience in life. With that said, here are the top things I would do differently.
I would have:
Scheduled shorter days in the beginning week of the walk. I found that my scheduling to Orisson, Roncesvalles, and Zubiri were all nicely timed, but after Pamplona I would have liked to keep my mileage at around 10 miles per day until the next week.
Not stayed in a city more than two days and instead focus on just shorter days. When I rested for too long it actually became harder on my body and was more difficult to get going again.
Brought a casual dress that was breathable for those super hot days in the afternoon, along with a headlamp and electrolytes.
Walked to Finisterre.
Worn sneakers from the beginning! Watch the tale of my first injury here.
taking in the view at O Cebreiro.
helpful resources
These are the resources I used before leaving and found to be helpful or tips I picked up along the way!
General Facebook Group and Woman’s Facebook Group. There are quite a few FB groups about the Camino and I found these two to be the best. I will give a lil’ warning on the Camino de Santiago All Routes group - people can be VERY judgmental about people using luggage transport, hiring tour companies, or any other topic they deem “Not a real Camino.” HOWEVER, there is a lot of great advice too! Just be sure to take any negative comments with a grain of salt and remember that people who say those kinds of things are really just judging themselves. It has nothing to do with you or anyone else. That’s what helps me deal with reading through un-camino-like commentary. The Camino group for women, however, is very friendly!
Brierley Guide. Everyone suggests this guide and while I personally didn’t use it, I know a lot of people love it as it contains information about the history of places along the Camino Frances and other fun facts and stops to take along the route.
Michelin Guide. This is the guide I used daily though I picked it up in Pamplona and I'm finding it hard to source an English version online so for the purposes of you getting a visual, I linked to the German edition. I know for sure you can find it at the Camino Store in Pamplona. If you find one in English online please comment below and let me know!
Booking.com. I love using booking.com for treks as you can schedule everything out and see it all in one place. I also liked that I could book the entire trip with free cancellation and pay upon arrival or just a few weeks before heading out.
Download WhatsApp. If you are from the US most people in Europe, and other countries, use WhatsApp for communication instead of our regular texting app. You can communicate with hostels and taxi services or other people you meet via this app. Download and try it before heading out.
I trust that this blog helps you in some way as you plan your perfect pilgrimage! This was a life-changing experience for me personally and one I could say without a doubt calls you to it. If you hear the call, or the voice, follow it and trust that what you need will be found on the Camino de Santiago.
buen camino!
p.s. were you looking for some piece of advice or information but couldn’t find it here? Leave a comment below and let us know so we can add it!
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