a beginner’s guide to walking Scotland’s West Highland Way
a perfect day on the West Highland way, from Kingshouse to Kinlochleven.
an unforgettable trek through the breathtaking landscapes of Scotland
After walking the Camino de Santiago (Camino Frances route) last year, I knew I wasn’t going to stop walking anytime soon. My Camino pilgrimage in 2022 lit a fire inside me to explore the world in a new way; on foot!
This way of slow travel is something I’ve become enamored with as I researched new trails around the world.
Spending time in nature, amongst the trees and wildlife, meeting new people, and learning about a new culture, lends itself to deep introspection. And of course, a lot of fun.
For my second trek, and Brian’s first, we chose to walk the West Highland Way based not only on logistical factors but because Brian and I both fell in love with Scotland last year on our 10-day road trip.
The Highlands have been calling us back ever since.
Taking a moment to appreciate the view as we approach the top of Conic Hill. We hiked it last year and were happy to hike it again this year (from the ‘back end’).
We both loved this trek and think it’s a great beginner trek for those who have some hiking experience and are in decent shape but still want access to amenities, accommodations, and to carry a lighter pack. In other words, you don’t need to be an experienced backpacker for this trek. You just have to be able to walk up and down hills for multiple days in a row and have a desire for adventure!
The trail itself is a rollercoaster of rugged terrain and beauty. From picturesque lochs and lush woodlands to wild moorlands and challenging mountain passes, the West Highland Way will keep you on your toes and leave you awe-inspired at every turn!
In this blog, we’ll be covering some of the logistical pieces to help make planning this journey as easy as possible for you.
Because we did not camp, we will not be going over camping suggestions in detail; however, we will be sharing some resources and some of our feedback from the trail. We think a lot of this information is helpful just to get a general idea of what is to come.
what we’ll cover in this blog:
the route
itineraries, lodging, & food along the route (helpful tips for each section)
what to expect: midges, weather, a typical day, etc
what to pack
cost breakdown
food specifically for people with dietary restrictions/preferences
helpful resources
A sample route for the West Highland Way though you can subtract or add more stops as needed.
the route
This iconic long-distance trail stretches approximately 96 miles (154 kilometers) from Milngavie, just north of Glasgow, to Fort William, nestled in the shadows of the mighty Ben Nevis, the UK's highest peak.
Usually, the trek is completed from south to north though we did meet a couple of people who were walking it via the opposite direction.
While the route is pretty straightforward, the distance in which you walk each day varies by fitness level, how leisurely you’d like your hike to be, the availability of lodging, and any rest days or side trips you’d like to take along the way.
There aren’t really any major variations so everything is pretty easy to navigate which makes it great for those nervous about going on their first, or one of their first, long-distance treks.
Most people complete their trek within 5-7 days (which means covering approximately 14-19 miles (22-30 kilometers) per day), though we took 10 days to complete as we added in 2 rest days and had a couple of days with shorter distances than some of the suggested itineraries we found online.
Some experienced hikers may choose to do it in a shorter time frame, completing the trail in 4 days, but this requires a more intense and fast-paced hiking schedule. We even met some people who were running the entire way!
tip: Unlike the Camino Frances, there are not nearly as many lodging choices so you will have to walk a certain distance per day. Keep this in mind if you are unsure about your fitness levels and are NOT camping.
Starting the West Highland Way! oddly enough this is the only picture we took together on the trail.
itineraries, lodging, and food along the route
typical itinerary
The Main Stops (where you sleep) along the route are:
Milngavie (official starting point)
Drymen
Rowardennan
Inverarnan
Tyndrum
Inveroran
Inveroran
Kingshouse
Kinlochleven
Fort William
We did a slight variation of this route and are happy we did although we would have made slightly different choices if we were to do this again. Here is the route we took and below is the route we wish we took.
our itinerary:
Milngavie
Drymen
Balmaha
Inversnaid
Inverarnan
Tyndrum
Bridge of Orchy
Kingshouse
Kinlochleven
Fort William
the itinerary we wish we had taken:
Milngavie
Drymen
Balmaha
Rowardennan
Inversnaid
Inverarnan
Tyndrum
Bridge of Orchy
Kingshouse
Kinlochleven
Fort William
For purposes of not making this blog a jumbled mess of confusion, we are going to focus on what we think would be an ideal itinerary for those who want to have a leisurely trek, with room to relax, and just enjoy the scenery each day (re: the itinerary we wish we had taken).
Brian having the time of his life as we stop by the Glengoyne Distillery for a wee dram. The Distillery is located slightly off trail on the first day between Milngavie and Drymen.
suggested itinerary
For leisurely walkers who like to stop and smell the bluebells.
Milngavie to Drymen
Distance: 12 miles/19 km
Elevation Gain: 1,742 ft
Our time: 7 hrs total (5 moving, 2 resting)
The West Highland Way starts from the Milngavie town center where you’ll be greeted by the “West Highland Way” iron gate which you will walk through to begin your journey.
There are plenty of shops to stock up on snacks and catch some breakfast or coffee/tea before heading out for the day. You will also find ATMs to grab cash which you will need for any honesty boxes along the route. Be sure to pick up your official West Highland Way Passport here too!
places to purchase a West Highland Way Passport include:
Gavin's Mill (featured in our Youtube video)
Creature Comforts
Spar
Today is a pretty easy day for walking so enjoy the scenery! We saw plenty of sheep (there is no shortage in Scotland) and even some Highland Cows on our first day. Sadly, we saw no more Highland Cows the rest of the way.
While there is a gentle uphill climb we found the hike to be pretty chill and a great warm-up for the coming days.
Along the route, we suggest taking a short detour to the Glengoyne distillery. It was the only distillery along the route that we found. Though we really have yet to be disappointed with any whisky we have tried in Scotland, we can say that Glengoyne is absolutely delicious.
This is a great point to take a break, grab a small ‘travel size’ whisky, and let your feet rest. Be sure to take off those socks and let your feet dry (and socks) dry out before re-applying your salve/vaseline and getting going again.
There is one short climb before reaching Drymen, a cute little town near Loch Lomond, but the views over the valley farms are worth it! Plus, on a clear, you’ll get a peak of what is to come on day two - Conic Hill!
For dinner, we HIGHLY recommend making reservations a few days in advance at the Clachan Pub & Inn.
This pub is the longest licensed pub in all of Scotland and the food was some of the best on the route! There is something for everyone so no matter what your dietary preferences you’ll be sure to find something you like.
lodging
Milngavie
The Premier Inn Milngavie was great for what you get. You can add on the breakfast buffet as well.
Drymen
There are several lodging options to choose from in Drymen and while we were happy with our choice we can’t say it was our favorite. We stayed at the Glenalva B&B.
food
Beech Tree Inn
We heard mixed reviews about their food though we did stop by to check out the animals. It has Pygmy goats, Shetland ponies, and rabbits outside right next to the picnic area! It is located about 5 mins walk from the Glengoyne distillery and you can even bring your own lunch and enjoy it here outside next to the animals.
The Clachan Inn
AMAZING FOOD! You will definitely need reservations. People were turned away and even from the bar area due to the popularity so book at least a day ahead. You can also stay here as it is an Inn though we did not hear of any personal reviews.
point of interest
Glengoyne Distillery
tip: Milngavie is pronounced ‘Mil-gai’ or ‘Mull-guy’.
Taking a break on Conic Hill.
Drymen to Balmaha
Distance: 7 miles
Elevation Gain: 1,371 ft
Our time: 5 1/2 hrs (3 1/2 moving, 2 resting)
The walk from Drymen to Balmaha is filled with exceptional views on a clear day.
You’ll begin today with a light uphill walk as you make your way to one of the most iconic stops along the way - Conic HIll.
After a good warm-up as you leave Drymen, which took us about an hour, you’ll begin your ascent of Conic Hill.
The path is fairly rocky so take your time and watch your footing.
As you reach the top, pat yourself on the back and enjoy the spectacular views of the world famous Loch Lomond. Looking below you’ll also see a chain of islands which you can explore via boat later today or take a rest day and enjoy this area for a bit longer than the average walker.
This point also marks the highland boundary between the lowlands and the highlands of Scotland - take a moment to take notice as from here on out as you’ll be in the highlands!
This is a great spot to have a snack or packed lunch before your descent.
As you make your way toward Balmaha, be sure to use those trekking poles! The descent is hard on the knees so be careful.
Once you reach Balmaha you’ll see the Oak tree Inn (your stop for the night). This family-run Inn boasts an Ice Cream and Coffee Shop, small store, restaurant, and pub. We’ve stayed here twice and love the friendly atmosphere, fresh food, large selection of whiskeys, and comfortable rooms.
NOTE: You could take a variation of this route by skipping Conic HIll and walking along the road from Drymen to Balmaha but we wouldn't suggest it.
lodging
Oak Tree Inn
Oak Tree Inn is the only lodging in this town as of the time of writing this blog. However you could take a short bus back to Drymen and then have it drop you back the next day.
food
Oak Tree Inn
You can get away with not having reservations for lunch but we would suggest booking at least 1-2 days in advance for dinner or you will find yourself eating at 8-9pm or having to make your way back to Drymen for food.
side adventure suggestions
One of the reasons we suggest stopping in Balmaha rather than Rowardennan is because of the boat rides you can take on Loch Lomond. Boat trips are available from Balmaha to the island of Inchcailloch, part of Loch Lomond National Nature Reserve. Check times the day prior so you can put together your itinerary and make sure and get back for your dinner reservations at the Oak tree Inn.
tip: Drymen is pronounced ‘dri-men’. Balmaha is pronounced ‘ball-ma-ha’.
Trail friends :)
Balmaha to Rowardennan
Distance: 8 miles
Elevation Gain: 922 ft
Our time: 5 hours (4 hours moving, 1 resting)
This day begins the hardest section of the West Highland Way - the walk along Loch Lomond.
While on paper it doesn't look like much, the tree roots and rocky shoreline can be a mental drain due to the constant diligence on your footing. If it has recently rained you may also be dealing with mud and slippery surfaces. While it is beautiful, be mindful and take your time. This is why we suggest breaking this section up and having some shorter days.
This segment meanders through an enchanting oak woodland and passes several campsites alongside Loch Lomond where you will eventually find yourself at the Clansman Bar, a great spot to have lunch.
The views are spectacular and you have plenty of room to stretch out on the desk or grass.
Only a short 5-minute walk from here is the very popular Rowardennan Youth Hostel. We stopped by to check it out and it had magnificent views from the dock and shard lounge. While I didn't stay here we heard great things about this place. It’s a very popular walker’s accommodation, plus you can take a dip in the Loch by jumping off their private dock!
lodging
Rowardennan Youth Hostel
If you watched our youtube video you saw how cool this place was! Right on the water and it is a popular spot amongst walkers.
food
Clansman Bar
This place had great food and a large outside area with picnic tables and a large lawn, right on the loch!
tip: Rowardennan is pronounced ‘row-ur-deh-nuhn’.
For the entire length of Loch Lomond Brian had this “What did Crystal get me into this time?…” look on his face. He ended up loving the challenge but it wasn’t our favorite section.
Rowardennan to Inversnaid
Distance: 7.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 787 ft
Our time: 4 hours (only 15 minutes resting time)
After enjoying your breakfast, you’ll find your way back on the WHW alongside Loch Lomond once again making your way over roots and rocks. The trail is quite small in this area so continue to be mindful of your footing.
There are plenty of places to take a break along the loch and have a moment of quietude and rest.
As you approach Inversnaid you’ll be greeted by a magnificent waterfall and, passing over a footbridge, you’ll come to the Inversnaid Hotel.
If you are staying here there is a walker's entrance, which is hard to miss, so you can take off your dirty boots, hang your poles, and leave your backpack before checking in.
We however suggest the Inversnaid Bunkhouse if only for their delicious food! You will need to walk another mile up a hill in order to do so but it is well worth it!
The food is out of this world!
You will have to walk back down in the morning as the trail continues from the Inversnaid Hotel so keep this in mind if you aren’t up for the extra mileage.
NOTE: there are waterbus services from Inversnaid to Tarbet and Inveruglas on the western shore if you were unable to get bookings at either the Inversnaid Bunkhouse or Inversnaid hotel. Just be sure to look up the waterbus times of departure before you set out for the day to ensure you do not miss your ‘taxi’.
lodging
Inversnaid Bunkhouse
Every room is a bunk room though you can reserve one for your walking party. We reserved a private 2-person bunk room but it was TINY. There are very few rooms here so book well in advance.
food
Inversnaid Hotel
We didn’t eat here but the place looked nice, clean, and very welcoming.
Inversnaid Bunkhouse
Some of the best food you can get on the West Highland Way!
At the end of Loch Lomond, this view is your prize for completing the most difficult part of the WHW.
Inversnaid to Inverarnan
Distance: 9 miles
Elevation Gain: 928 ft
Our time: 7 hours (5 moving, 2 resting)
This is your last day alongside Loch Lomond! Be proud of yourself for coming so far!
If you walk during May you’ll encounter some beautiful fields of bluebells which are bright and cheerful amongst the sage green and brown of Scotland’s mountains.
The walk is generally full of short ups and downs with no super steep climbs. It won’t look like much on your GPS but it is tiresome with the roots and rocks you’ll be making your way over.
After one last push up a short, but steep, hill you’ll be rewarded with a view that congratulates you for all your efforts and hard work! You may also be lucky enough to see some wild goats around this area.
From here it is only a short walk to Inverarnan.
You can stop by the Beinglas Farm for a tasty beverage and a snack, or to stay here for the night in one of the cute ‘hobbit huts’ (as we fondly call them) or continue on to the historic Drovers Inn.
The Drovers Inn is OLD and the pub speaks of its history - you’ll feel like you stepped back in time. While it does need a bit of a facelift, we enjoyed our stay. The food was good though we heard both Beinglas and Drovers Inn were equally delicious.
lodging
Beinglas Farm
Mostly camping though they do offer cute little hobbit huts. A very simple yet welcoming lodging option.
Drovers Inn
Supposedly haunted and it has a LOT of personality. While it could use a bit of work, we enjoyed our stay and would stay again.
food
Bring a packed lunch or simply wait until you find yourself at Beinglas Farm or Drovers Inn
tip: Inverarnan is pronounced just how it looks; ‘In-ver-ar-nan’
Drover’s Inn, an iconic stop along the route. It definitely has a vibe to it and it’s well worth the visit if even for a dram or a bite to eat.
Inverarnan to Tyndrum
Distance: 13 miles
Elevation Gain: 2,707 ft
Our time: 7 hours (5 1/2 moving, 1 1/2 resting)
After several days on the shores of Loch Lomond you will now enter new territory; one with open landscapes and glen walking!
You’ll be surrounded by soaring munros and be able to see the trail laid out in front of you - a vast difference from the days prior.
About halfway through you can take a detour to Crianlarich. If you choose to do this, you will find places for lunch or accommodation, though you will add about 2 miles round-trip to your day unless you decide to stay there for the evening.
We decided to take it easy and enjoy our packed lunch at the hill just past this point where we had a stunning view of the glen below.
You’ll continue on from here making your way through the hillside and eventually to the Kirkton Farm where you can stop for a rest or go into the store for some snacks and beverages. They have a small seating area outside.
Continuing on, you’ll cross over River Coonish where you can dip your feet in before finishing the day in Tyndrum.
Tyndrum is one of the larger towns along the way so there will be several places to eat, drink, or find accommodations.
lodging
Muthu Ben Doran
Great value for price! The hotel bar is, um, interesting. A whole floor dedicated to the bar though no one but us was there. Even if you don't drink, go upstairs - you will feel like you're in a treehouse!
food
There are quite a few options in Tyndrum as it is one of the bigger stops on the trail so we suggest googling and checking out some menu’s when you arrive.
The Real Food Cafe
We heard about this place from several walkers who raved about it. We personally didn’t like it though we know others did so we think it’s worth mentioning here. It is right when you get into town.
Notable mention
Green Welly Stop
This place is a great ‘walker’s stop’; you can pick up anything you made need before heading out for the next day (snacks, first aid items, gear, etc). We had fun looking around and loved the vibe of the place as a lot of people were having their morning coffee and chatting. Great hiking gear!
tip: Glen is Scottish for ‘valley’ (or so we are told)
We were lucky enough to have amazing weather for our entire walk (we started in Mid-May). The views on the West Highland Way are stunning!
Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy
Distance: 8.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 1,191 ft
Our time: 6 hours (4 moving, 2 resting)
Before leaving for Bridge of Orchy, be sure to stock up on supplies for the next few days if you need snacks. I highly suggest popping into the Green Welly as it’s packed full of items walkers may need plus it’s a pretty iconic stop along the route. There will not be much along the way until you reach Kinlochlven so grab extra bars or foot care before you head out!
After leaving Tyndrum, you’ll make your way alongside a highway (which gets further and further away from you as you walk) and train tracks. You may even share the trail with some adorable sheep.
As you walk, for maybe an hour or so, the views really start to open up.
We couldn't help but “ooohh” and “ahhhh” for most of this day as we marveled at the stunning munros alongside and ahead of us.
We could tell this was just the beginning of several more days of the pure beauty and rugged wilderness that the highlands offer.
As you make a quick and short descent you will find yourself at the Bridge of Orchy.
We had heard of Bridge of Orchy from more than several people though we had no idea we would love it SO MUCH.
The accommodation and food were the best on the entire route. It was definitely a luxury stay and was well worth the added expense.
lodging
Bridge of Orchy Hotel
We can not say enough about this place. The food, the room, the staff…PURE HEAVEN!
food
You will not find any food until you reach Bridge of Orchy so be sure to bring a packed lunch!
tip: Bridge or Orchy is pronounced ‘Bridge of Or-Key’.
Thankfully there A LOT of places to dip your feet in the water along the trail or fill up on water (if you have a water filter). Brian loved this spot in particular which was in between Bridge of Orchy and Kingshouse.
Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse
Distance: 10.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 3,100 ft
Our time: 7 hours (5 hours moving, 2 resting)
After enjoying a fresh and delightful breakfast at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel, you’ll begin a vigorous climb up a hill that gives way to stunning views.
From here you will have a fairly easy descent, though be mindful of your footing as the rocks are loose and it can be easy to slip if you aren’t paying attention.
As you descend, you’ll be greeted by the Inveroran Hotel which boasts a nice sitting area outside. You can take a break here and grab a few items from the very small storefront, which to our knowledge is brand new. If you forgot to pick up snacks earlier in the day you could find something here. They had pre-made sandwiches, bars, drinks, and the like.
From here you will have a fairly gradual, yet gentle, uphill climb for most of the day until you reach Kingshouse. We only saw a handful of other walkers the entire day and loved the expansiveness of this section. We could see the trail laid out in front of us for nearly a mile at a time.
There are several brooks and streams along the route so be sure to dip your toes in!
After what seems like a very long time, you will finally see the historical Kingshouse Hotel & Bunkhouse in the distance. It looks absolutely stunning as you approach.
Right before Kinghouse there is one other lodging option at the Glencoe Mountain Resort. It is slightly off the trail though there are signs you can’t miss.
There's not much around here in regards to accommodation and food unless you want to take a taxi to Glencoe (around a $30 ride each way we were told).
Because of this, accommodations fills up FAST. We suggest booking around 6 months or more in advance.
Even if you aren't staying at Kingshouse be sure to pop in and enjoy a beverage or snack either this evening or the next morning.
The views from the lounge and restaurant are nothing short of mind-blowing. I don’t think we’ve ever been so impressed with views from a hotel lounge in our life - not even ski resorts!
lodging
Glencoe Mountain Resort
From what we saw online lodging is reasonable and you will have everything you need as a walker. You may have to bring your own bedding so be sure to check if you are not bringing a sleeping bag or other overnight gear.
Kingshouse Hotel and Bunkhouse
Sadly, they are very short-staffed though we still loved our stay. We heard from more than several people we met that the low staffing was causing some major cleanliness issues in the bunkhouse. Our room was VERY clean and so was the main hotel, bar, and restaurant areas.
food
Pack a lunch, or if you start late, check ahead to see when the Inveroran Hotel bar or restaurant opens. Other than that you will need to wait until you reach Kingshouse, Glencoe Mountain Resort, or take a taxi to Glencoe for food at the end of the day.
Celebrating our ascent up Devil’s Staircase, which was definitely not as bad as it sounds. We really enjoyed this spot for lunch and stayed here for over an hour just taking in the views.
Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
Distance: 10 miles
Elevation Gain: 1,883 ft
Our time: 7 hours (4 1/2 moving, 2 1/2 resting)
Probably one of the most scenic sections of the West Highland Way, your day will start overlooking Kingshouse Hotel for about a mile or so as you make your way gently uphill until you reach Devil's Staircase.
But don't worry, it really is not as bad as it sounds.
Devil's staircase took us about an hour to reach the top. Take frequent breaks to look back and appreciate your hard work and the stunning munros that surround you.
Once at the top, enjoy your lunch while taking in the panoramic views. You can even walk further up, to the left of the trail, to get away from the crowds and take in even more views up above.
Most of your afternoon will be spent descending into Kinlochleven so use your poles to help hose knees!
Kinlochleven is a small town nestled between munros and tomorrow you’ll be making a steep ascent first thing in the morning, so rest up tonight!
lodging
MacDonald Hotel and Cabins
This seems like a pretty popular place to stay for walkers (we stayed here) and it’s located right across from the trail, well, almost. The rooms look like they were recently re-done and we enjoyed our stay.
food
We didn’t end up checking out any other places in town and ate at MacDonald Hotel and Cabins (above). It wasn’t the best food we’ve ever eaten but we have no complaints - we are always grateful for a nice meal at the end of a long day.
We
Kinlochleven to Fort William
Distance: 16 miles
Elevation Gain: 2,800 ft
Our time: 9 hours (7 moving, 2 resting)
Today is the last day and it will be a beautiful ending to your trek.
Your day begins with a steep but short ascent. This was the steepest section of the entire route as far as we remember.
But once at the top you have a pretty easy going path laid out before you for more than several miles. You will be surrounded by munros on both sides and the views are nothing short of spectacular!
Take a break anytime to have lunch and soak up as much of the beauty of the Highlands as you can.
This is the one day we wish we were camping because we didn’t want to leave.
After several miles you will have some hills to make your way up and down, but nothing too strenuous.
Then you will find yourself on what seems to be a gravel logging road though I am unsure if it is still in use. This is when you will see Ben Nevis and know that all you have from here is a descent into Fort William.
As you reach Fort William, you will come to the official end of the West Highland Way.
lodging
There are A LOT of choices in Fort William. We have no specific suggestions so check out any online reservation site (such as booking.com) to find one that is perfect for you.
food
There are no options along the trail so bring your own! Fort William is filled with great choices though we suggest enjoying some Indian food if you are not from the UK. The Indian food in the UK is the best in the world outside of India.
tip: right across the street from the sign marking the official end of the West Highland Way is the Ben Nevis Highland Center. This is where you can purchase you Certificate of Completion. But don’t forget to stop by the Visitor Center on High Street to get your last official passport stamp.
what to expect: midges, weather, luggage, and more
weather
The weather along the West Highland Way can be quite unpredictable, so it's essential to come prepared for all conditions. The route spans diverse landscapes, ranging from lowlands to highlands, which means you may encounter various weather patterns in a single day. Rain is common, and it's best to carry a good waterproof jacket to stay dry. You can also bring rain pants too though that really is up to personal preference. Additionally, layering is key, as the temperatures can fluctuate significantly, even during the summer months. Don't forget to pack a warm fleece or insulated jacket! We used both. Sunscreen and a hat are also necessary, as the Scottish sun can be surprisingly strong.
We actually had great weather the entire time and walked from May 16th - May 26th. It was chilly in the morning, with average temperatures in the 50’s, and ranged from the 50’s to 70’s in the afternoon.
The driest months with the least rainfall tend to be April, May, and June. During this period, the weather is often more stable and the chance of heavy rainfall is relatively lower compared to other months.
You never know what you’re going to get so come prepared for anything!
While we were thankful to have great weather, things can change almost instantly in Scotland. Come prepared!
midges
Ah, the notorious midges! They can be a nuisance, especially during the warmer and more humid months, like late spring and summer. These tiny flying insects can swarm around you and leave irritating bites. To fend them off, bring some insect repellent specific for Midges (we like Smidge brand). A midge net for your face can be a lifesaver during peak midge season. Fortunately, they are less active during windy conditions, so that can be a reprieve.
Peak midge season usually occurs from late May to September, with July and August being the months when they are most abundant and active. During this period, the weather is warmer and more humid, providing ideal conditions for midges to thrive.
Conversely, the best months to avoid midges in Scotland are during the colder winter months, from November to March. As temperatures drop significantly, midges become less active, and their numbers decrease substantially, making outdoor activities more pleasant without the constant annoyance of these tiny insects.
tip: Purchase midge spray as well as a midge net in Milngavie before setting out on your trek. We used both and were so happy we had them in our packs.
The midges were particularly bad only one day on the trail; between Kinlochleven and Kingshouse during the first ascent of the day. They are relentless when they decide to grace you with their presence.
luggage transport
If you want to make your trek less strenuous, I highly recommend arranging for luggage transport services. Several companies operate along the West Highland Way and can transport your main luggage from one accommodation to the next. This way, you only need to carry a daypack with essentials like water, snacks, rain gear, a first aid kit, and any other day-time necessities.
We do this on all our treks because we travel full-time and have camera gear, though you may want to do this just because you don’t want to carry heavier items like toiletries or simply because you want to carrier a lighter pack. You can also store bags with the luggage transport company which is a great idea for those going on an extended holiday outside of walking the West Highland Way.
We booked with Travel Lite and have nothing but great things to say about them.
If you have luggage transport you will receive a tag that will attach to your bag. Everyday morning will drop off your bag(s) at the place where you picked up your luggage the day prior (reception will let you know where this is). You can also arrange the baggage transport company for a bag hold as well.
a typical day on the trail
Everyone will have their own version of what a day on the West Highland Way looks like, but we found this was a pretty typical day for those who had accommodations similar to ours.
a typical day on the West Highland Way goes something like this:
Wake up, do your self-care routine (brush teeth, prepare your feet for the day, etc), and pack your bag. If you’re using luggage transport, you will need your luggage at the bag drop-off area by 8 am (always double check with your company!) and then head to breakfast.
Breakfast at your accommodation is usually a buffet with a small side menu that you can order specialty items from.
Buffet is generally:
Toast with jam, butter
Juice
Baked goods like croissants or muffins
Cereals with milk
Sliced cheeses
They usually come around and ask if you want coffee or tea. Sometimes they will have specialty items like lattes as well.
The menu varies but there is usually eggs (always), haggis or sausage (we almost always had vegetarian ones available to us), baked beans (always), cooked tomatoes (always), mushrooms (always), porridge (just specify dairy free if need be) and sometimes we would have pancakes, potatoes, or other breakfast items you would see in the USA.
Before setting out you can grab your packed lunch, if you ordered one the night prior, and set off on the trail, passing through stunning landscapes of rugged mountains, and serene lochs. You can stop along the way to enjoy the views at just about anytime and have snacks or your packed lunch. There are plenty of opportunities to rest and refuel.
NOTE: There will most likely not be any towns or villages to stop for a bite to eat along your daily stretch UNLESS you walk further distances than the itinerary we have laid out above so think about this and what you will want to eat based on your mileage and needs.
As you walk, the weather will change so you can expect to change in and out of layers A LOT. because… Scotland :)
In the afternoon, you'll reach your next accommodation, where your luggage, if transported, will be waiting for you. You will need to ask the front desk where to find it as most places will not take it up to your room for you.
During check in you will have the option to add on breakfast, if it was not already included in the price, and a packed lunch for the next day. They usually give you a sheet to fill out for your packed lunch so be sure to let them know if you have dietary preferences/needs and find out what they offer in that case. See my notes about food and dietary preferences below!
Lunch usually includes a sandwich, crisps (potato chips for us Americans), a piece of fruit, and a candy bar or some sort of sweet. There was always a vegetarian option that can easily be made vegan though you will need to specify on the sheet.
Depending on what time you check in, your bed or room may not be ready but you can always grab a drink from the local bar or café. Every single place we stayed had a bar to hang out at and usually an outside area to chill post-walk.
When at check in also ask if they have a drying room (often where luggage pickup and drop off is located) where you can place your shoes and any other items you want to dry. I have to admit - Brian and I used this ONCE and never used it again. Our towels smelled terrible because they were drying in a room full of dirty socks, shoes, and towels from every walker in the place. We preferred to just place our shoes out near a window in our room, with the insoles taken out to dry as well, and wash our socks and dry them here as well, or just put them in our laundry bag to wash.
After checking in, it's time to hit the showers! You may have to wait if you are staying in dorms until it is available. This gives you the chance to freshen up and relax before dinner or you can just head to the pub for a drink or do your laundry.
Laundry note: We usually washed our clothes every other day and sometimes just did it ourselves in the sink if we were in a private room and laid them outside on our deck to dry or used the hotel’s laundry services if we were tired. Honestly, paying a few dollars for this service was well worth it in our opinion! Between organizing our film footage at night, showering, eating dinner, and going over the next day’s walk, it just felt really helpful to not have to think about one more thing.
We personally liked to shower and prep for the next day as soon as we got in the room, head to dinner, eat, and then go to bed.
Evenings are a time to unwind, chat with fellow walkers, and look over the next day's adventure.
Inversnaid Bunkhouse had some of the best food on the trail (above). Bridge of Orchy was also a favorite of ours and we can’t wait to go back - even if it is just for the food!
packing list
Everyone has their own personal preferences on the weight of their load (re: pack) though we suggest keeping it to no more than 10% of your bodyweight maximum and only carry essentials. Brian and I packed WAY too much for this trip so if you want a good laugh, I suggest watching us pack here.
Download our Packing List PDF here
This is not specific to the West Highland Way, but will still be helpful in providing a checklist you can cross off as you go!
here is what we recommend:
General
Trusted backpack that is comfortable
Waterproof backpack cover
Personal toiletries and self-care items
Sunscreen (yes, even in Scotland)
Midge and tick spray (Smidge is great!)
Midge net (so helpful!)
Neck Gaiter (I never go on a hike without one)
Sunhat
GPS device (or your handy phone with GPS downloaded maps)
Toilet on-the-go needs (toilet paper or baby wipes, a bag to store used toilet paper in, a trowel, hand sanitizer, and Kula cloth for those with lady bits)
First aid kit
Foot care kit
Headlamp
Water bladder and a water filtration device if you want to fill up from streams (we didn’t use one as we had 3L bladders and found this was enough for our mileage each day)
Clothes
1-2 short-sleeve shirts (we always bring 2 t-shirts to switch out - 1 post hike and 1 during hike though we wore both on the trail as well)
2 pairs leggings or hiking pants
Pair of shorts (or pants that double as shorts and pants. We used our shorts more than we thought we would as it was HOT some days and we also liked changing into them in the evenings. This isn’t a must but a good option to bring if you have luggage transport).
Long sleeve sun shirt (I really like Icebreakers cool lite long sleeve shirt for sunny days because it’s breathable, soft, and is very lightweight)
Long sleeve mid-layer shirt for warmth (I always bring a wool long sleeve shirt for warmth)
Fleece (unless you think your long sleeve mid-layer shirt will be warm enough)
Puffy jacket or lightweight insulated jacket for warmth
Rain jacket and rain pants
Trainers or hiking boots (I used trainers though keep in mind it does rain in Scotland!)
Hiking sandals or flip flops post-hike (You will want something to wear in the showers if staying in dorms and to change into after the day’s walk)
Here is where it comes down to preference:
Some people like to just have 2 sets of hiking clothes. One you wear during the day, and one you wear post-hike; you will wear this after the hike, as pajamas, and for the next day’s hike as well. If you are an ultralight walker then this is a great option.
I found I like to have a workout dress to wear post hike or a pair of leggings, and my 2nd t-shirt and a fleece for night. For pajamas, I like to use my go-to wool sweatpants and a fleece. If I were to be an ultralight walker I would just wear nothing or my extra set of hiking clothes.
Our packs were pretty light (always less than 10lbs. BUT our baggage transfer was WAY too heavy. We didn’t know what we needed and we thought we’d pack more ‘just in case’. If we only knew…
Be on the lookout for a new blog post coming out that features all our favorite trekking gear brands and items we have tested!
Other options to think about:
I rarely saw any around to purchase and we definitely needed them at the end of the day. Bring your own if you want to have this during or post-hike.
This is not a sponsored post but we found this made a huge difference in our trek as we felt energized and nourished because you don’t always get proper nutrition on your trek.
Emergency information card that is laminated or waterproofed
Your name, any relevant medical information, and who to contact in case of emergency are good things to have on this card. Keep this in your jacket or pants pocket at all times so if there was an emergency and you were unable to talk someone would find it as they checked you for injuries. I learned this in my NOLS certification class and thought “How did I not think of this before?!” It could be a lifesaver for you and extremely helpful for the person trying to help you.
Snack bars
We always carried more than what we needed in case of emergency.
Camera or phone with camera
You will most likely want to take pictures or videos to look back on your time on this incredible trail.
Extra beverage bottle
Besides our water bladders, we brought two small nalgene bottles with us and in the morning we filled them with coffee or tea (plus non-dairy milk and added honey) to have on our breaks or lunch time. It was a nice pick me up and both of us didn’t mind the extra weight.
Quick drying towel
We only needed ours once when we stayed at Inversnaid though if you have all hotel rooms you may not need this. That said, it’s always worth checking ahead. We could've rented towels at Inversnaid which honestly I wish we had done to save weight. We like Turkish towels as they work as beach towels too and they are lightweight and dry fast though not quite as fast as the microfiber towels you may get at a sporting goods store. The Turkish Towels are definitely bulkier so keep this in mind too. It really comes down to personal preference.
cost
I’m going to start this off by saying we could've saved a few dollars by booking further in advance. I originally wanted to do a mix of private rooms in dorms (hostels), B&B’s, and hotels. But when I booked, I often got the last room in every single town and only the most expensive option left was available.
tip: The Highlands are sparse on accommodation so remember this when you decide to book. Choose your dates and book FAR in advance. Honestly I would book a year in advance if you can.
Booking this far in advance will not be possible at every single lodging option though you can contact them to ask when booking will be released for the upcoming season. Tell them your dates and put an alarm on your phone when booking opens. Rooms go fast!
Brian and I went all out on this trip and didn’t look at the prices much in regards to food or other items along the way. You can definitely budget lower for this even if you are getting lodging the entire way so keep this mind. I will say though, Scotland is not cheap.
Someone told me “it’s a trip of a lifetime. Spare no expense. Save and have fun!”
final cost for our 10-day trek:
lodging total cost: $2,414 (about a third of this was at Kingshouse for 2 nights)
food & drink cost: $1,059
miscellaneous (e.g. smidge spray, passports, foot care, clothing, etc.): $281
certificate of completion: $3
grand total: $3757
tips and resources
accommodation
Book ahead, way ahead. I wish I had booked 9 months to a year in advance.
I like using booking.com because I like all our bookings to be located in once place. It makes things so much easier. I also get discounts on booking.com from using them so much due to booking last year’s Camino Frances, our Scotland Road Trip, and this year’s West Highland Way.
The only downside is some B&B’s and even some hotels do not use booking.com. You will need to email or book online. We only had 3 out of 10 bookings that I had to make reservations with via email or their website. Those were Premier Inn MIlnagvie, B&B, and Drovers Inn.
I personally find emailing back and forth about availability too time consuming and sometimes even a hindrance of my ability to know my itinerary and dates will work so keep this in mind if you are like me.
You can also call most places to make bookings over the phone but I didn’t find I would save money this way as I get better discounts on booking.com.
Bridge of Orchy Hotel, photo taken from Booking.com.
facebook groups
Maybe I’m showing my age but I really like FB groups for the personal accounts and experiences of fellow walkers. I like to hear if there are issues with any accommodations or the route itself. I have found other’s experiences invaluable on my treks.
This group was especially helpful. If you see me in the group, please say “HELLO” :)
Just a side note: Some people in FB groups can be, well… rude. Just keep this in mind and remember some people take out their personal frustrations on strangers because of personal issues happening in their life. It’s ok to ask any questions you may have even if they seem silly or odd.
Brian enjoying one his delicious flapjack bars while drying his feet.
food & dietary preferences
This section is for those with allergies, intolerances or dietary preferences.
There is A LOT of great food on the trail!
I found that every place had vegetarian and gluten-free options. Vegan food was also readily available though it was more limited. Don't expect gourmet plant-based meals, though you will not starve and you will have plenty to eat.
However, if you are celiac, I always saw a cautionary note saying food is not prepared in gluten-free facilities so just bear that in mind. You will have GF options though it may come in contact with wheat.
items we always found:
Breakfast
Toast (almost always there were GF options), baked beans, cooked tomatoes, eggs, non-dairy milk, porridge (not usually GF).
Lunch
Sandwiches (ask for GF bread if needed); for the sandwich you will need to specify if you are vegan as we never once saw a vegan specific option. The vegetarian option was always just cheese and tomato or cheese and chutney. If you are vegan, ask the front desk if they ever make vegan sandwiches. They might just tell you to write it on the sheet. If so, here is what I put “please no cheese. Lettuce, tomato, cucumber, carrot, or any vegetables you have on hand would be great!”
With the candy bar you never know what they will choose, so I would just save it and give it to someone or give it back to the front desk in the morning or ask them to sub the candy for extra fruit.
You can always suggest things too! Sometimes people just are not aware of what people with certain allergies or intolerances can have so I would just let the front desk know what worked for me and ask if that was possible. They were always accommodating. If there is no gluten-free option or vegan option you can order from the dinner menu and tell them to bag it up for your next day’s lunch. I would just choose something that isn’t saucy and make sure you have utensils. I did this and had a gluten-free vegan pizza for lunch one day wrapped in foil.
Dinner
We always had plentiful options! Indian food is prevalent in the UK so look out for curries and other Indian dishes. I would often ask for slight substitutions to make something more optimal for myself or order sides. I always look at sides for ‘regular’ menu items and ask if I can do a mix of sides as a full meal. Most places are very accommodating. This was usually cooked vegetables and potatoes.
We used Alltrails everyday and our trail navigation was always spot on. We, however, were about 2 hours slowere per day then what was listed as ‘average time’ to complete.
maps
The West Highland Way is very well marked. I only used our online map to look at the distance and the elevation gain or lost for the day and to track our time.
We used Alltrails and it was perfectly accurate for the entire route. I just downloaded each day individually and had it available offline. I added 1-2 hours of the average time it took to complete as Brian and I like to take our time and film. Think about this if you are a leisurely walker.
links to helpful businesses, services, and resources
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We hope you have an incredible journey on your West Highland Way adventure, or shall we say,
Slighe na Gàidhealtachd an Iar!
Drink water, be ready to battle the midges, and enjoy the views of this magical country.
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